Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
